Homemade Chex Mix has been a holiday tradition in my house for as long as I can remember. My mom gets out her old metal 13×9 pan–dented and seasoned from years of baking–melts the margarine, adds the seasonings, and tosses it with our choice of cereals: rice, wheat, and (my favorite) corn chex, Cheerios, and pretzel sticks. Nothing more. Absolutely no peanuts–this was a debate for years, but we’re finally all in peaceful agreement. Nuts are allowed in fudge only.

Oh, and her fudge is amazing.

But the Chex Mix. It’s taken me years to get it right, but this year, I got it. Yes, it’s the recipe on the cereal box, but when she makes it, it is so much more. So here it is: 6 tablespoons of salted butter, melted in the pan then mixed with 2 tablespoons (plus a few dashes) of Worcestershire sauce, 1 1/2+ teaspoons seasoned salt, 1 heaping
teaspoon garlic powder, and 3/4 heaping teaspoon of onion powder. Stir until blended, then add 10 cups of cereal, tossing well, a few handfuls of broken pretzel sticks, and bake at 300 F for an hour, stirring every 15 minutes. Don’t even think about using the microwave. It just wouldn’t be traditional.

Oh, and you need a Christmas canister to store it in. And if your kids are heading back to college, send the tin with them. You may think they don’t need a themed tins in their tiny dorm rooms, and you’d be right. But trust me: Every time they see that tin, even if it’s shoved to the back of a closet, they’ll pause for a moment and think of you. And they’ll smile.

Quick Tapenade: (2-3 servings for main course pasta, 4-6 for pasta as a side)

In the bowl of a food processor, place an assortment of olives–I like to mix several types from the olive bar, probably a cup total. I prefer spicy green olives (sometimes called green olives with chilis) and kalamatas. Pit olives if necessary, and chop large olives in half. Add 1-2 tablespoons of capers, 1/2 lemon (zest and juice), 1-2 garlic cloves (smashed), and a handful of parsley–no need to chop. Add 1-2 T extra virgin olive oil, and pulse until chopped. Optional: Add several anchovies to the food processor. I love this taste, but it’s excellent without them.

Cook 8-12 oz. linguine according to package directions. Transfer the tapenade to a large bowl, and add cooked pasta to the tapenade. Reserve 1/2 cup pasta cooking water to loosen the tapenade into a sauce if necessary. Sprinkle with chopped parsley to serve.

This is also great as a spread on a  warm baguette as an appetizer–it will serve about 6 people. Or keep the whole bowl for yourself, add a glass of wine and a great movie, and call it dinner. I would make it a Sandra Bullock night–The Proposal, Two Weeks Notice, While You Were Sleeping, and Miss Congeniality. No matter your feelings about her (I happen to think she’s fabulous), you have to admit her supporting casts are stellar. I know it’s trendy to say so, but Betty White makes The Proposal.

I grew up in a small town in northern Ohio. And I loved it. Ohio is one state that really seemed to get the seasons right–hot summers perfect for running through the sprinklers, cool and beautiful falls with leaves of every color, snowy winters that required hot chocolate and bright sweaters, and springs that launched every backyard garden into high gear. But one of my favorite things about Ohio was, and still is, its signature chili. This is one of the first dishes I learned how to make, and to this day is one of the most comforting meals I know. Southerners can have their fried chicken–I’ll take this any day. What makes it distinct? Oddly, some of the same ingredients that make a Mexican mole sauce: chocolate and cinnamon. Just a hint of each, enough to add warmth and intrigue. It gives the chili a depth and spiciness that you just can’t find in any other recipe. And it’s served over spaghetti! Comfort food never had it so good. I have a perfect record on converts to this chili–it may take three bites or three bowls, but you will come back for more.

Cincinnati Chili

(adapted from Cooking Light, September 2008)

1. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 1 T vegetable oil and 1 1/2-2 lbs. lean ground beef (I prefer ground sirloin). Cook until browned, breaking up large pieces. Remember, you’re going for something close to the consistency of hot dog chili. Add 1 1/2 medium onions (finely chopped; save the other half and add it at serving, see below), 2 cloves minced garlic, and cook five more minutes or until the onion is tender and translucent.

2. In the meantime, prepare the seasonings. I like to combine all of the spices ahead of time–I’m less likely to forget one when I add them to the pot. (For those that give a range of amounts–2-3 T, for example–add the lower amount first and taste after it simmers for a few minutes–add more as you wish.) In a small bowl, combine 2-3 T brown sugar, 2-3 T chili powder, 1 tsp. ground cumin, 1 tsp. ground cinnamon, 1/2 tsp. allspice, 1/4 tsp. ground coriander (this adds a nice brightness, but does not make enough difference that you should run out and buy it if you don’t already own it), 1/4-1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper (unless you use spicy barbecue sauce, then omit the cayenne), 3/4 tsp. kosher salt, 1/2-1 tsp. black pepper (depending on your spice-level preference), and 2-3 T unsweetened cocoa powder (if you prefer, you can add 1 oz. chopped unsweetened chocolate instead).

3. When the onion in tender, add to the pot: 1 cup water, 3 T barbecue sauce (if you use spicy, omit the cayenne pepper), 3-4 tsp. white vinegar, 1 (10.75 oz.) can tomato puree, and the spice mixture. Mix well, bring to a boil, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes. Taste after 15 minutes or so and adjust spices. Note: If the chili tastes too acidic, add more sugar–brown or white (I usually add a couple of pinches of white). If it tastes flat, add a pinch of salt. If that doesn’t help, add–wait for it–ketchup. I know it sounds crazy, but the vinegar and concentrated tomato flavor adds just the right punch, and you know you have it in your fridge.

4. About 15 minutes before the chili is done, put on a large pot of water to boil. Salt the water and add 12-14 oz. of spaghetti. Cook according to package directions. Drain, but do not rinse. Also, warm 1 (15 oz.) can of kidney beans, rinsed and drained. Note: Everyone I know loves the beans, so I cheat and add them to the chili pot when I set the past to cook to heat them through, rather than serving them separately. This saves me the trouble of another dirty dish.

5. To serve: Add 2-3 oz. pasta to each bowl, and add 1 cup of chili. This is two-way. Present diners with the next few options: kidney beans (three-way), chopped onion (four-way), and grated cheddar cheese (five-way).

Serves 6.

I hope you enjoy this archived post. It certainly explains the last few weeks of dissertation-writing. I have several new posts on the way, but until then, I hope this will suffice.

Sometimes you just need chocolate. We’ve all been there. Maybe you’ve had a bad day or a rotten week, maybe you’re stretched so thin that even a little indulgence seems like complete and unattainable luxury. Perhaps you’re in a terrible mood with no explanation. You realize, as Ishmael does in the opening pages of Moby-Dick, that something needs to change: “Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp, drizzly November in my soul; whenever I find myself involuntarily pausing before coffin warehouses, and bringing up rear of every funeral I meet; and especially whenever my hypos get such an upper hand of me, that it requires a strong moral principle to prevent me from deliberately stepping into the street, and methodically knocking people’s hats off…” Whenever he finds himself in such a state, Ishmael goes to sea. I, on the other hand, make brownies. It seems far less dangerous, though every bit as deliberate. And while it instantly gratifies, the effect lasts far longer than one might expect. The more hats I feel like knocking off, the more chocolate I add, until the sea of white chocolate chips somewhat resembles the eponymous white whale of College English fame. These brownies offer a perfect escape from the Ahabs of the world, and despite my numerous literary references, they are so simple and indulgent that you will not feel an ounce of guilt eating half the pan while curled up watching Glee. Remember: all will be well with the world again. As Ishmael said, “The drama’s done,” and for more comfort, “the great shroud of the sea rolled on as it rolled five thousand years ago.” Take a moment for yourself. Have a brownie. This too shall pass.

The Ultimate Brownie

(adapted from One Smart Cookie by Julie Van Rosendaal)

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1 oz. unsweetened chocolate, chopped

2/3 cup cocoa powder

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 large egg

2 large egg whites

1 1/2 tsp. instant coffee granules, dissolved in 1 1/2 tsp. water

1 tsp. vanilla (a little more never hurt)

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 tsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. salt

Mix-Ins:

I prefer a few handfuls of white chocolate chips, semi-sweet chocolate chips, and mini chocolate chips (I sprinkle the minis on top of the batter before baking). You could also add any kind of baking chip, toffee chips, nuts, etc. Have fun here–the more you need chocolate, the more kinds you can add. You can even press crushed cookies or candies into the top of the batter before baking.

1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Spray a 9×9 pan liberally with cooking spray. Set aside.

2. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter and chocolate over medium-low heat, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and add the sugar and cocoa powder. Mix until well-blended–it will resemble wet sand.

3. In a large bowl, whisk egg, egg whites, coffee, and vanilla. Add the chocolate mixture and whisk until well-blended–this may take a minute and some upper-body strength

4. In the empty saucepan (so you don’t have to dirty another bowl, though you can if you wish) mix the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add these to the chocolate mixture and stir until there are a few streaks of flour left. At this point, and in your mix-ins and fold until well-distributed.

5. Pour batter into prepared pan and smooth into the corners. Bake at 350 F for 25 minutes, or until the edges just begin to pull away from the sides. (It is better to underbake brownies–these in particular are supposed to be fudgy.)

6. Cool in pan on a wire rack. Cut into squares–16-25, depending on the size you want your brownies.

Basic Nutritional Information, pre-mix-ins (per serving for 16 servings):

In case you’re wondering: Calories: 151, Fat: 4.4 gram

This recipe was simple to put together, as long as you let the store give you a hand. Just buy a crust and some pre-washed spinach and you’ll be ready to eat in an hour. I baked this in my convection toaster oven and it baked in almost half the time the recipe claimed, especially the blind baking step–it only took 15 minutes, and probably could have gone for less. If you have a large enough toaster oven, I highly recommend this method. Granted, I used the regular oven for the side of zucchini (see below) so it didn’t keep the kitchen from getting hot, but the speedy baking was still worth it. Also, the recipe in the magazine claims it makes 10 servings. If you’re serving it for brunch alongside several other offerings, sure, 10 servings might be accurate. But as a dinner entree with a simple side, go for 6-8 servings. The calorie count is still quite low, and there’s nothing worse than feeling unsatisfied after a good meal.

So without further ado…

Smoked Gouda Quiche

(adapted from Cooking Light, August 2010)

For the crust:

Buy a premade crust. I understand, you’re feeling righteous. You want to put only whole foods in your body, and no preservatives. You want to use real ingredients and feel the butter and flour come together under your gentle touch. Got it. If this is the case, here is my suggestion: Buy it. Seriously. Not only is the crust recipe suggested by Cooking Light the worst pie crust I’ve ever made (and I’ve made a lot)–it ripped and shredded and fought me every step of the way and made me want to scrap the whole endeavor and go out for pizza–although the final product did taste good. But you have to make the dough, chill it, roll it out and shape it to the pie pan, then freeze it, blind bake it, cool it, then finally fill it and bake the actual quiche. At least 3 hours total. It’s a good thing Dan was late getting home from his squash game or we would have waited for hours. And while I don’t mind a long process, this is not what you want to be doing for a “quick” evening meal. You can certainly make the crust the day ahead, but really, I have better things to do. So just buy it.

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Pierce a storebought 9-inch frozen pie crust with a fork to keep air bubbles from forming and bake for 25 minutes (check after 10-15 if using convection) or until lightly browned. Set aside to cool.

2. To prepare the filling: Heat 1 T extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1/2 cup sliced green onions (green and white parts); saute 5 minutes or until tender.  (Add a pinch of salt to draw out moisture.) Add 3 cups fresh baby spinach (basically three large handfuls); saute 2 minutes. In a bowl, combine 1 cup low-fat milk with 3/4 cup grated smoked gouda, 3/4 tsp. salt, a pinch of grated nutmeg (freshly grated is always best), and 3 large eggs. Mix well with a whisk. Stir in the spinach mixture until well-incorporated. Pour filling into the crust.

3. Bake at 350 F for 35 minutes. If using convection, check after 20-25–the middle should not be wobbly and the top should be firm to the touch. Let cool for a few minutes before serving.

Serving Suggestion (and another recipe): Dan and I ate this for dinner with a side of Roasted Zucchini. Here’s how you make it: Preheat the oven to 450 F. Line a baking sheet with foil and spray with cooking spray. Mix 1-2 cloves minced garlic with 1-2 T extra virgin olive oil. Cut several zucchini into wedges (cut off both ends, halve, then slice each half lengthwise several times) and place these wedges skin side down of the baking sheet. Brush with the olive oil mixture, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and herbes de provence (or any other dried herb mixture you prefer). Bake for about 8-10 minutes; remove when the zucchini begins to brown on top.

Simply Elegant Bolognese

(adapted from Everyday Italian)

1. As I prefer to prep everything rather than chop as I go–it’s much more leisurely, especially when combined with a glass of wine–chop 1 medium onion, 2 garlic cloves (place these in one bowl or pile) and 1 large carrot, and 1 celery stalk (set these aside).

2. Heat a large (emphasis on large) skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2-4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. (Don’t skimp to save on calories–you’ll need the oil to keep the vegetables from burning. If you’re worried about fat, use a leaner ground beef or even ground turkey.) Add the onion and garlic and a pinch of salt; saute until the onion is quite tender, around 8-10 minutes. Add the carrot and celery. Saute another 5 minutes or until softened. Increase the heat to high and add 1 lb. of lean ground beef; break up and saute until browned, about 8 minutes.

3. Stir in 1 jar (about 24 oz.) of tomato basil marinara sauce, 1 (14-oz.) can diced tomatoes, and a heavy pinch of dried basil, oregano, thyme, and crushed red pepper flakes, as well as salt and pepper. Simmer 30 minutes or so over medium-low heat until thickened. (Quick trick: To get all of the sauce out of the jar, pour in everything you easily can, then add a splash of water to the jar, screw on the lid, shake, and pour into the pan. It will thicken up and you won’t feel wasteful It always makes me feel better.) After 30 minutes, season with salt and pepper to taste. If it tastes too acidic (bright, perhaps harsh on your tongue) add a pinch of sugar.

4. Meanwhile, cook 1 lb. of spaghetti in salted water according to package directions. Pile pasta into a bowl, smother with sauce, add grated parmesan (or parmeggiano-reggiano, even pecorino if you’re feeling fancy) and enjoy! Oh, and pour yourself a second glass of wine–you deserve it.

Whenever one of Julie’s recipes just didn’t turn out–or when it was particularly inedible as were most of the aspics–she and her husband ordered a bacon and jalapeno pizza from Dominos. I don’t know why this detail stuck with me as it did, but I knew I had to try it. I put my own twist on it–my signature garlic oil and generous dollops of cream cheese (the tang tempers the heat of the jalapenos)–and the result is the most requested pizza in my house. I’m including several recipes below. One is my basic go-to homemade pizza dough. If you have two hours free on a weekend, make this dough, shape it into three balls, and freeze each in its own large ziploc bag. Then, when you want pizza during the week, place the bag of frozen dough in the fridge the night before to thaw. The second is my garlic oil, which I use instead of marinara on almost every pizza I make. It makes the dough far less soggy and adds so much flavor. And the third recipe is, of course, the general amounts and method for the best pizza ever.

Basic Pizza Dough

(adapted from Baking Illustrated)

1. Fill a 2 cup measuring cup with 1/2 cup warm tap water and add 1 envelope rapid-rise yeast and a pinch of sugar or 1 tsp. of honey. Let sit for five minutes.

2. Place 22 ounces of flour (around 6 cups) in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or a large mixing bowl. I use a combination of bread flour–for elasticity and structure–and all-purpose flour, usually about 11 ounces of each. Add 2 tsp. salt (kosher is fine) and mix until combined. Have extra flour on hand for dusting the counter or in case the dough is sticky–either kind will work.

3. To the yeast mixture, add 2 T olive oil and 1 1/4 cups room temperature tap water (fill to the 1 3/4 cup line) and add this to the flour slowly, mixing as you pour. (The machine, if you are using one, should be on low.) Mix until the liquid is incorporated and the dough begins to form a cohesive mass. Then switch from the paddle to the dough hook, or form the mixture into a ball and place on a lightly floured countertop to knead. Knead until the surface is smooth and springs back when pressed (this should take five minutes in the machine, and about 8 if kneading by hand). If kneading by machine, add flour by the spoonful if the dough is sticking to the bottom of the bowl. This might happen if the humidity is high or there was too much water in the dough–just pay attention. No worries–sometimes it just sticks. The pizza will be fine.

4. When you are finished kneading, place the dough in a large bowl that you drizzle with 1-2 T olive oil. Turn the dough ball over once and cover bowl with plastic wrap. Set in a warm place to rise. In the summer, this can be anywhere. In the winter, I like to put it in an “off” oven–this protects is from drafts and it is slightly warmer. Let rise for 1 1/2 – 2 hours, or until it is doubled in size and an indent remains if you poke it with your finger.

5. When the dough is risen, place it on a floured surface and cut into three equal pieces. Form each into a ball by folding the sides under, turning the dough a quarter turn, and repeating, until the top is smooth. Cover all three with a cloth is using immediately, or place each in its own large ziploc bag (since it will expand a bit before it freezes) to freeze. (The yeast will last, frozen, up to 1 month.) Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before using.

6. To use, I prefer to press the dough into a round with my hands, but you can also use a rolling pin if that is easier. It will create a more uniform circle, but, especially if the dough was frozen, it will prevent it from rising as much.

To bake: Preheat the oven to 450 F. If you’re using a pizza stone, allow it to heat up for about 30 minutes. (Hint: Even if you want to use a pizza pan, place that on the stone if you have one, and slide the pizza onto the stone after 8-10 minutes of baking. This will help the lower crust to crisp up.) Cover a pizza pan with a few tablespoons of cornmeal and place the dough on it. (Use a pizza peel and pizza stone if you have them.) Swirl the dough around to be sure it moves. Brush with the garlic oil–right to the edges–add the toppings, place the dough in the preheated oven, and check after 8 minutes. Add a few minutes more if you need to–you probably will–and remove the pizza when the cheese and crust are as brown as you wish them to be. Let cool for 2 minutes before cutting so the cheese doesn’t pull off.

Garlic Oil:

For one pizza: Heat 1 T olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add 1-2 cloves minced garlic and 1/4 tsp. each: dried basil, oregano, thyme, crushed red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. (Vary the spices as you wish.) Heat, swirling or stirring occasionally, until the garlic just begins to brown. Don’t let it go too far or it will burn–it will continue to cook after the heat is off. Let cool, and brush on the dough.

Jalapeno and Bacon Pizza:

Brush the dough with the garlic oil, and add a handful of italian blend cheese. Add 3-4 slices of chopped cooked bacon, a couple of tablespoons of jarred pickled jalapeno slices (drain them on a paper towel before adding them to the pizza), about 3 ounces of cream cheese (just dollop it), and some more italian blend cheese (this keeps the toppings from burning). Bake as directed above. Enjoy!

Note: This recipe only makes a small amount, enough for 2-3 people. It’s great to whip up using pantry items or that last bell pepper before you buy a new jar. But if you’re serving a crowd, double or even triple the recipe.

Roasted Red Pepper Spread

(adapted from Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone)

1. In a food processor, blender, or mini-chopper, place one roasted red bell pepper (either from a jar or freshly roasted, skin removed–see below), one small clove of garlic (smashed), and about a tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil. Process these until chopped, and add a pinch of salt, some ground black pepper, and a few drops of red wine vinegar. Process until coarsely blended. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve with warm bread and enjoy!

Variation: This could also be an excellent sauce over linguine or fish, or even chicken. Try it out in different ways!

To roast a bell pepper: Place on a foil-lined baking sheet in the broiler, a few inches from the flames. Keep an eye on it; don’t leave the kitchen. When the skins get black–you should hear some popping–turn the pepper to blacken another side. Continue until all sides are darkened, then place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap for 15 minutes. This will help to loosen the skins. After 15 minutes, peel and discard the skins and seeds, and you’re ready to use the pepper!

But for those of you lucky enough to be in increasingly chilly temperatures, here is a recipe that’s perfect for the crisp air I wish you would send my way. This recipe makes an excellent loaf of spicy-sweet bread or a dozen muffins. A few tips: Freeze any leftover muffins immediately. Then each morning or whenever you want a snack, wrap it in a napkin and microwave it for about 30 seconds–it’ll taste far closer to fresh than it will if it sits on your counter for a few days. And they’ll keep frozen for months. Also, about this particular recipe–it is very spicy, almost closer to gingerbread or spice cake than pumpkin bread. Cut down on the cloves if you prefer a stronger pumpkin taste. I hope you enjoy it!

Whole Wheat Pumpkin Bread or Muffins

(adapted from King Arthur Flour’s Whole-Grain Baking)

You will need to set a stick of butter to soften on the counter about an hour before you begin. Take it out of its wrapper and slice it according to the tablespoon markers (on the wrapper) to speed up the process. You want it to just give if you press on it–it should be slightly soft but not runny or melted.

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F for the bread, 375 F for the muffins. Spray a 9 x 5 loaf pan with cooking spray or line a muffin tin with paper liners. Set aside.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 cups of whole-wheat flour (white whole wheat or traditional), 1 tsp. baking soda, 1/2 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp. salt (use table salt rather than kosher salt for baking), and 1/2 tsp. each: cinnamon, ground cloves, freshly ground nutmeg. (Feel free to vary the amounts of spices or add some, like ginger, that you might prefer.)

3. Cream 1/2 cup (1 stick) room temperature butter with 1 cup packed brown sugar (light or dark) and 1/4 cup granulated sugar until light and fluffy. (I prefer to do this in the bowl of a standing mixer with the paddle attachment, but a hand mixer works fine as well. Beat in 3 large room temperature eggs, 1 at a time, until well-incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Beat in 1 tsp. vanilla extract and 1 cup canned pumpkin (pumpkin puree, not pumpkin pie filling).

4. Add the dry ingredients to the wet, folding by hand until just incorporated–do not overmix. Add any extras you like when there are still a few streaks of flour in the batter: 1/2 cup dark chocolate chips, nuts, dried fruits–whatever screams “fall” to you. I love this with chocolate chips. Pour into prepared pan or cups (fill them 3/4 full) and bake: 55 minutes for the loaf, 22-24 for the muffins. Cool each for 15 minutes in the pan, then remove to a cooling rack. Let the bread cool completely before slicing or it will fall apart. The muffins can be eaten warm. These would be great with a little more butter for serving, though that is certainly not necessary.

While the crust is baking, make the filling. You don’t need to even soften the cream cheese–just be sure to scrape down the sides of the processor if you don’t. Once everything’s in, the filling should look like this.
Once you’ve melted the chocolate and mixed in some of the pumpkin mixture, you pour the rest of the pumpkin onto the slightly cooled crust, then dollop on the chocolate. Then you play–sweep a butter knife up and down the pan, then side to side, until it looks perfect to you. Don’t overdo it or it will get all mixed and the marbling will be ill-defined. Not that this is the worst thing in the world, but it will detract from your sense of smug satisfaction.

Looks like stationery.
To cut the bars–once they have cooled and are completely chilled in the fridge–fill a glass with warm water and get a large knife and a clean dishtowel or paper towel. Lift the parchment out of the pan and place it on a cutting board. Dip the knife in the water, cut lengthwise in as few strokes as possible, and wipe off the knife. Dip it in the water again, and repeat this process until all of the bars are cut.
Arrange them on a plate, admire, and enjoy.

Pumpkin Chocolate Cheesecake Bars